BraSil Bird & Wildlife Bash '03 - The collected Trip Journal
14 June:
The three groups of travellers-Charlotteans (Rob, Cathy, Herbie, and Di), Winston-Salemites (Jim, Mary Allen, Bill, and Betty Gray), and the Boat People (Mops and Mar)-convened at the Varig desk in the Miami Airport, got their boarding passes and boarded the jam-packed 8:50 PM flight to Sao Paulo. Arriving in BraSil at 0h-five-something, we made it through customs and waited for our flight to Cuiabá. Airport down time was consumed consuming pão de queijo (cheese bread) and other Brazilian pastries, fruit and coffee. We arrived in Cuiabá around midday and met our guide, Braulio Carlos. Baggage loaded into two vans we headed off for the 3 minute ride to the churrascaria-the Brazilian all-you-can-eat barbeque food orgy-and then piled back into our two vans and headed north of town to the escarpment known as the Chapada dos Guimarães. En route we saw our first macaws-a pair of Blue and Green Macaws at their cliff-side nest. After unloading, we got back into the vans and headed to the Veu da Noiva (Bridal Veil Falls) where we got our first full taste of the Brazilian avifauna, including Channel-Billed Toucan and Red-Necked Aracari in the canopy tops. Nice accommodations with a porch hammock and views of the escarpment. Beautiful pool and sauna area but little time to rest with so many birds to see.
15 June:
Jim, Rob, and Braulio got an 0600 start on birding in the dry savannah habitat atop the escarpment. Lots of cool birding, including gripping Andy's group on the Cinnamon Tanager. After breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs, breads and jam we vanned back down into Cuiabá (second van with a major grip with two Burrowing Owls at the gate to the Posada Penhasco) and boarded our Trip flight for our trip to Alta Floresta, with a stop in Sinop. Lunch (heart of palm soup & sandwiches) at the Alta Floresta Hotel, where we spent the night on our way out of Alta Floresta, before driving an hour and a half or so to the shores ot the Teles Pires River. A great birding stop at a Mauritia palm swamp to see the Palmcreeper and some great macaws. At the airstrip gate we got our first sight of a monkey-a Dusky Titi-as well as some more macaws and our first orpendula. Around 5PM we piled all our gear into two motorboats and rode up the Agua Cristalina River to our lodge. Traveling a lot of the way in the dark, the night sky was spectatular with stars, especially the Southern Cross and amazing Milky Way. Everyone unpacked and got settled into their bungalows with simple single beds, ceiling fans and tropical decor before dinner, pasta with meatballs and a much-needed sleep, only interrupted by a 1:30 visit by howler monkeys (possibly a million).
16 June:
Up and out at 5:30 for breakfast. We are getting use to the good chocolate cake and at least 2 of us are looking for it in the morning. Also had fresh fruit, ham & cheese slices, rolls & other sweet breads. Our first taste of the rainforest. After watching capuchin monkeys behind the bungalows, we hiked out to the canopy observation tower and climbed up to the penultimate platform, 30 m above the forest floor. The first platform was at treetop level and the upper platform afforded a view high above the trees (just don't think about where you are and enjoy the view). For anyone unfamiliar with a canopy tower, it was a slow morning, but for those who've never seen the rainforest, much less from the canopy, it was spectacular. Nunbirds, barbets,parrots, woodpeckers, and a really cool pygmy owl ducking into its nest hole and then looking back at us from his nest hole were highlights. Oh, yeah, there were wasps their sting felt like a shot. Nice flyby by a group of Woodstorks flying over the river, most likely. Spectacular Spangled Cotinga and pretty nifty Long-tailed Tyrants spotted nearby. Good views of long-nosed bats in the rocks on the trail back to the lodge. After lunch of our typical beans and rice, beef, good slaw, okra and a great custard dessert we had time for a siesta then we got back in the boats and floated with the current down the Agua Cristalina to the Teles Pires, seeing lots of neat birds along the way. The elegant, creamy Capped Herons were probably the highlight for many. At the Teles Pires, with perfect timing, we watch a spectacular sunset and then motored downstream a bit where we saw a Bat Falcon zipping off its riverside perch to nab dragonflies in the gloming. Heading back, Braulio night-lighted a Great-or was it a Common? Potoo, which Rob took a fabulous picture of standing up in the canoe from about 2 meters aways. The trip back up the river was full of Spectacled and Dwarf Caiman and plenty more potoo and nighthawks flying out over the river catching insects plus another beautiful nighttime sky. The monkeys did not return or we were too tired to notice.
17 June:
The day began with a boat ride up to the Serra Trail, which climbs up onto a rocky hilltop. This was the "tower" for the lodge before the real tower was built two years before. Atop the hill, we had fantastic birding-puffbirds, purpletufts, tanagers, and hummers-plus a seasonal guide at the Lodge, Alex, found freetailed bats under a rock. Herbie spotted a large lizard on the rocks. On the way down, Rob, Cathy, and Jim saw a baby hummer sitting on a branch, being fed by its mother. Further down the trail, eagle-eyed Mopsy spotted the rare poison-arrow frog. We boated a bit further up the river to the Castanheira (Brazilnut) Trail were we did a loop, stopping at a monster brazilnut tree for a group photo. Boated back to camp for lunch and then got back into the boats (oh, my aching bunda!) for a long ride up the river to a lake where many of the strange Hoatzin were seen. Along the way we had to stop and walk a bit while the boat drivers took the boats through a set of rapids while we feed the piúm (nasty no-see-ums). After the portage, we (Cathy and our boat driver) probably saw a Harpy, but didn't get a good enough look to be sure. At the Hoazin lake everyone enjoyed a Black-collared Fishing Buzzard (Hawk) that was croaking away. Got to the rapids with just enough light for the drivers to get the boats back down them and then did the rest of the trip in the dark, nightlighting lots of potoos, nighthawks, and nightjars. Lots of great waterbirds along the way- many types of herons, in particular- also tons of the Cathy bird (aka kingfishers of all types) always trying to race with our boats. For our last dinner Agua Cristalina River Lodge we dined al fresco on paranha soup, fish grilled over an open fire,of course rice and beans, grilled pineapple, fried eggplant, salad and flan for dessert.
18 June:
After breakfast we did another tower climb to feed the wasps-I mean see more birds. Pretty slow in general, but there were some fantastic macaw flybys that made it all worthwhile. After lunch of yes, rice and beans, sliced apples, cauliflower, lettuce, potatoes, beef with gravy, rice & vegetable fritters and rice pudding for dessert we had some time to rest or pack then packed back into the boats and headed downriver to the Land Rover and pickup for a stuffy (for the Land Rover crew) ride back to Alta Floresta. Ordered from the menu for dinner.
19 June:
The day began with a hike through the woods in search of the Cryptic Forestfalcon, which proved why it is called what it is. Lots of tape playing for this and a couple of understory antbirds left many of the group wondering about the sanity of the subset of the group that really wanted to see these things. We did get great looks at the White-browed Hawk before getting out of the woods to a pond where we saw some neat macaws and Snethlage's Marmoset-a tiny monkey. Back in time for breakfast and the choice to go back out to look for birds, etc. or rest, read, repack, or sit by the pool and bird from there. Many choose the latter option. Before the birders set off to look for more obscure antbirds and cryptic falcons, we were all treated to quite the kite show-the most elegant Swallow-tailed Kite was seen circling high above the hotel with Plumbeous and Gray-headed Kites. After a buffet lunch and "the check out from hell" (this was a test, right?!) we flew back to our home away from home-Cuiabá. And then endured a long, dusty, bumpy drive to the Pantanal. Spotlighting along the way, we saw Jabiru storks on a nest, a crab-eating fox trotting ahead and the first vehicle got a good look at a giant anteater diving into the bushes.
21 June: Many bridges and potholes later, we arrived at te Fazenda Santa Tereza (Shakey Acres). Our most basic accommodations but as always clean and comfortable. The first chance for laundry service, much needed and appreciated. Great walk in the morning with Helmeted Manakin, a little black bird with a bright red punk hairdo, being the highlight for many. Herbie's encounter with Shakey, the white-collared peccary, was sadly not recorded on film. However, as it turns out Mop & Mar DO have a record of this on film, going to the highest bidder. Herb, you might want to consider going a little higher for the negative. Once Herbie's adrenalin levels got back down to normal, he spotted the "orange marsupial,' known to the majority of the world's birders as the Troupial, a favorite of the crowd, esp Betty Gray. Also, saw a very colorful jacamar that looked like a giant hummingbird, great variety of colorful cardinals, etc After lunch many took a rest in the hammocks that were on the surrounding porch or enjoyed the swimming pool. We watched other guests fishing for catfish or piranhas and the caimain watched all of us. Afternoon boat ride up the Pixai River. Capybara, caimain, and frustratingly close to a Zigzag Heron-an extremely hard to find bird, much sought after by all the birding trips. After dinner some played Spades in the dining room and a young Brazilian boy joined in picking up the game very quickly. 22 June: Drove down the Transpantaneira to a little woodlot in the middle of ahuge flat area that would be completely flooded in the wt season. Great-horned Owl in the trees and Nacunda Nighthawks on the fenceposts. Also saw the rare caiman lizard sunning on one of the fence posts not occupied by a Nacunda Nighthawk or a Snail Kite. Braulio spotted a small (4 foot) yellow anaconda crossing the road. After a picnic lunch we went back to see the Hyacinth Macaws that Hobby had photographed 25 years before. This was probably the hottest day we had but it was fine in the shade. Before getting there we saw BIG jaguar tracks. Saw the macaws and then on the way back the second van group got out while Braulio, grunting and howling into his homemade bamboo jaguar gadget, called in 2 jaguars. Braulio, Betty Gray, Bill, and Martha saw the two cats cross the road 15 meters from them. Mops, Hobby, Jim, Mary Allen, and Mops dipped BIG time-but did hear the growls/purring and heard the splashing footsteps through the water. We also watched a troop of coati's cross the road about a hundred meters down and saw a family of Howlers Monkeys-Dad, a couple of females, and a tiny baby hanging on to Mom's arm.
23 June:
Travel day from Hell. O630 departure. Some good birds on the way home, including Rheas, Whistling Herons, and a couple of Roseate Spoonbills, doing their impersonation of a Pink Flamingo, plus good views of the endangered marsh deer, before saying goodby to Braulio in the Cuiabá airport (again) and heading off to Rio, with a plane change in Brasília. Got to Rio at 8PM where we met Ricardo Parrini and our driver Valdir-nicknamed Ralph Kramden by Herbie-and began a harrowing, high speed drive-at least until we got to the 30 minute traffic jam. An impromptu spades game on a cooler in the aisle helped ease the wait. Three and a half hours later, we got into the Hotel Ypê, exhausted and some nerves frayed. Located on the side of a steep hill the accommodations varied but all included several rooms per couple with wood burning fireplaces some in little A-frames houses. The hotel had an indoor and outdoor pool and sauna which was used by several of us.
24 June:
At breakfast we got our first views of the valley below the hotel and the amazing parade of hummingbirds, easter-egg tanagers, and toucanets feeding just inches in front of our noses. Morning hike down the mountain a bit over to the Hotel Simon-more feeder watching, after lunch most of the group hiked up to the falls above the hotel while Hobby and Cath went downhill to the Lago Azul trail, where we gripped the rest with a great sighting of a Red-ruffed Fruit Crow and got our first look at two species of coquette hummingbirds at the feeder in front of the tourist shop near the park entrance. Cathy gave a short English lesson to 20 12 yr olds leaving the park. The waterfalls were beautiful with opportunities for many photos. We had to ask an armed guard to allow us to hike down to the lower falls for more great views. Not much chance to hear the birds with the roar of the falls.
25 June:
A 1.5 hour drive out of the park and back into it at the other end for a hike/drive up the road to Agulhas Negras (Black Needles). Heard but didn't see the Black-and-Gold Cotinga and saw lots of endemic spinetails as well as the gorgeous Diademed Tanager (a top-10 bird for Di) as we got up to higher elevations. Lunch in a big meadow before getting great looks at the Araucaria Tit-spinetail in a big stand of these southern hemisphere pines. Our highest elevation was up around 2400 m above sea level.
26 June:
After breakfast at the Yippee-I mean Ypê Hotel, we bused back down to Rio and rode the "Bonde" up to the Cristo atop Corcovado, where we enjoyed spectacular panoramic views of all or Rio, or at least what we could see through some nasty smog! After a late afternoon stroll along the Copacabana beach (unbelievable no-hands beach volleyball game watched along the way) while Mopsy and Mary Allen helped out the Brazilian economy at H. Stern. And had an interesting tour of the factory where their guide knew a lady from Winston-Salem.(small world) We had our last supper and breakfast before a 630AM departure to the airport. Our travel curse continued, as the flight was 2 hours late leaving for São Paulo due to fog there. Once under way, the trip was a pleasant one, with a rare daylight trip over the Amazon rainforest. And great views of the Amazon River. Arriving in Miami, the travel gods stopped plaguing us and, much to Hobby's surprise, we all got vouchers for the night at the MIA hotel in the airport-and meals to boot!
June -28 We all finished our final legs to W-S, C, or Fla. tired, with lots of dirty clothes but having had a Wonderful time with a great group of people.
